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Leather

Materials & Care.

RUBIROSA uses exclusively European leather for the manufacture of its shoes, which is tanned in Italy.

Materials

Leather is a fascinating product and has accompanied, protected and kept mankind warm from the outset. Despite the thick, almost waterproof skin, it is breathable. This means that it allows sufficient moisture and air through and absorbs grease like human skin.

As leather is perishable however, man quickly started developing methods to stabilise the raw animal hide and thereby make it more durable. This process is known as tanning. The leather types used by RUBIROSA are vegetable tanned or chrome tanned.

Each of these tanning methods gives the leather specific characteristics, which are significant for its later application. Chrome tanning creates a soft, light and pliable leather and is therefore used as upper leather. Vegetable tanning is used for interior leather. As it is purely plant-based and the interior leather might later come into direct contact with the skin, allergic reactions are ruled out with this tanning process.

Nappa leather, calf

Nappa leather is a smooth, supple leather, which originates from the upper layer of the skin (grain side). Calf nappa generally feels strong in the hand and is very durable. It can be recognised by the small hair pores which break up the relatively smooth surface. A calf has the same number of hairs and hair pores as a fully-grown cow, but with the difference that these are distributed over a smaller surface area. This gives calf leather a more even look, is smoother and finer and, in comparison to cowhide, has the same or even greater resistance to tearing.

Velour leather, calf

For velour leather, the flesh side of the skin is honed, giving the leather a velvety surface and slight pile. The fibres are less dense than and not as finely intertwined as smooth leather, making velour leather less firm and robust in its natural state. It develops a remarkable resistance to tearing through the tanning process however.

Cleaning and Care

First, shoes, whether made of suede leather or smooth leather, should be impregnated before first use. The process of impregnation protects the leather from the infiltration of moisture and dirt, thus contributing to prolonged usability of the shoe. Impregnating sprays, pumping atomizers or liquid impregnating agents can be used for this purposes. When using impregnation sprays or pumping atomizers, care should be taken that they are only used outdoors or with good ventilation.

Nappa calf leather

Smooth leather shoes should be cleaned with a soft cloth; if stained with coarse dirt, it should be cleaned with a brush. Special shoe shampoos or saddle soap can be used as an adjunct for this. They are massaged into the leather with a sponge or cloth and then wiped off. Let the leather dry slowly and gently. Saddle soap should only be used occasionally as it greases heavily. If used excessively, it can close the pores of the leather and colour creams will no longer be able to penetrate properly. Even smooth leather shoes should be impregnated from time to time: the right time for this is after cleansing and before the application of creams.

Suede calf leather

Suede is dry-cleaned with a fine brush for dust and dirt. Then we recommend brushing through the leather with care. For suede leather, you can use brass brushes for rough cleaning. Otherwise, we generally recommend crepe brushes for suede leather. For stubborn stains or salt crusting, you can thoroughly clean suede with water and curd soap. The leather must then be completely wet so that no new crusts arise. Then stuff the shoes with newsprint paper and dry slowly and gently. It is best to hang them at room temperature so that they can breathe. Finally, they are re-roughened with the appropriate brush.

To refresh the color of suede, use of a liquid paint application or special color activators from specialist retailers is recommended. There are also combination products that directly impregnate the shoe.